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29/04/2015

Dinner with Old Friends

by Doug Rumsam (Director)

Sometimes less is more. A gathering of a few friends, some bucket-list wines and simple fare was just the ticket last week.  A mountain of garlic, with a splash of olive oil, white wine, parsley and clams thrown in for good measure – the perfect foil for 1990 Lafon Montrachet.

Black pork loin with homemade chips and a glass of 1947 La Violette… oh go on then.  Duck rice and 1999 Roumier Amoureuses, tick.  1998 Le Pin to round of the evening - formidable.

Getting down to business:

1990 Lafon Montrachet

The nose soars. Butter caramel - makes you want to dive in and guzzle the lot. But dont...this is a blockbuster. Lush, rich and so generous at entry, then it seems to suck in the abs and regain its correct posture. Sublime length, concentration and race horse power....regal and takes no prisoners. The thick hit of citrus sweetness at the very end is a show stopper. Unreal. 99pts DR

1947 La Violette
Figs, plums and dates on the nose and lovely light airy scents with a faint hint of varnish. Follows a really pronounced sweetness. This old girl has plenty of life, just the rim and finish hints at the age. Waves of waves of the finest date juice you could imagine. Has you licking your chops endlessly. Over 10 minutes already evolving, gaining weight, adding spice and coffee. Can't remember a better start to a dinner in the last 10 years. 97pts DR

1999 Roumier Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses
Wild and feral nose. This is muscular and so primal. Back off for 20 years sadly. Unfair to follow a 47, but you have go somewhere. Meaty, so concentrated, this would likely be called out as a Rhone if I tasted it blind. Amazing concentration, typical purity of Roumier' Amoureuses but a disservice popping this now. Right now 96 Pts but in 15 years 98pts+ DR

1998 Le Pin
Floral, fresh nose with a rich sweet underbelly. Touch of violets at the rim. Soft, velvet touch, floats on the palate. The beauty of Le Pin is the lack of human touch in the cellar, it's all in the vineyard and it shows. Real power here but so effortless in delivery it oozes class. reaches the back of the palate and you feel the power, but it's so subtle. A tremendous bottle of wine and a fitting end to a perfect evening. 98pts DR