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15/10/2015

Run Rabbit Run

by Doug Rumsam (Director)

There is a new joint in Macau turning out food that is out of this world - or at the very least, pretty far off. It is based in the Macau Space Museum.

Le Lapin is stunning to behold and the food doesn’t miss a beat. Great execution, sublime sourcing of produce and little fuss. It reminded me of some of the famed Japanese-style French restaurants.

This was the venue for my latest wine dinner and the wines were worth a few words too.
 

2003 La Romanee, Liger Belair
As soon as the cork was popped, the floral aromatics flooded the room. There is an intense, perfumed inner core and beyond this it starts to gather in funk. There was endless amusement trying to put our finger on the complexity of the nose, everything from kerosene, to pine-sap and violets was thrown in the mix. Completely spellbinding. It doesn’t disappoint in the mouth either. Builds in stature across the palate, with remarkable purity and decent drive. Love it (though kind of wish I didn’t given current pricing levels). 98+ pts DR

1996 Jacques Selosse Brut
Bruised apples, lightly honeyed fruit and a lovely lingering finish. Great great definition. A beautiful golden liquid and effortless. True genius is in simplicity and this nails it. 96 pts

1978 Barolo Cicala, Aldo Conterno
Heavily perfumed. Prunes, tea and a touch of Chinese spice. This is properly old school Barolo...gentle opening of fresh, light red fruit and hefty tannins to back it all up, pinned together with acidity that lifts the old girl a little at the finish. A little disconnect between the alluring nose and bright fruit that hits the palate and the hefty slab of tannin, but you cant have it all (all the time). 93 pts DR

Le Lapin Wines