It’s St Emilion day in Bordeaux En Primeur…
Our overwhelming impression of the 2017 vintage was just how seminal it was, and will prove to be in time, for St Emilion. The producers lucky enough to be located on the plateau saw only a tiny effect from the frost (if at all) and delivered wines of extraordinary expression, focus, precision, intensity… and all with a level of restraint that has not been seen from these parts for almost two decades. 2017 is the reinvention of St Emilion and if you don’t have some of these wines in your cellar you may never know quite how spectacular they can really be.
The release of the day has to be Troplong Mondot at GBP 864 – well inside our spread.Troplong 2017 picks up two massively impressive scores from both Lisa Perrotti-Brown (95-97) and Antonio Galloni (95-98), and balances its typically ripe, intense fruit character with a mineral, herbal edge and spectacular, velveteen tannins. The combination of the growing season which so naturally suited St Emilion and the arrival of the talented Aymeric de Gironde as General Manager (formerly the man responsible for the ‘dialing back’ of Cos d’Estournel) has delivered an “incredibly sleek and stylish”(LPB) wine.
Galloni dubs the 2017 Troplong “a major stylistic shift in the direction of freshness and energy”and “a remarkable new chapter in the life of Troplong Mondot”.
Other releases today include:
Pavie Decesse at GBP 1092 (95-97 LPB, 93-96 AG) – a massively impressive wine, if somewhat… massive. If you like the style, you’ll love this.
Bellevue Mondotte at GBP 1296 (96-98 LPB, 95-97 AG) – another fruit-packed wine with huge structure but amazing mineral expression and freshness. Turbocharged.
Beausejour Duffau at GBP 930 (94-96 LPB, 93-96 AG) – fabulous concentration and a real ‘juiciness’ give this huge charm