Clos des Goisses 2009
We are delighted to announce the World Premiere of the new release of the stunning Champagne ‘Clos des Goisses’ from Philipponnat: the 2009.
At BI we have long believed that Philipponnat’s superb flagship Champagne Clos de Goisses is quite simply one of the very best wines produced anywhere on the planet. Why? Not only because it is from one of the most singular and extraordinary vineyards in the world, or because Charles and his team are winemakers par excellence – but because we know full well that it is easily capable of ageing and improving for over half a century. Over the years we have had the chances to taste some back vintages like the ’53, ’55 or ’76 and they tasted as good as any Champagne we have ever had the chance to try. We’re not the only ones who think this way:
Antonio Galloni -“Philipponnat’s Clos des Goisses is one of Champagne’s most distinctive wines. Capable of aging effortlessly for decades, Clos des Goisses has built an enviable track record of successes … In the very best years, Clos des Goisses matures gracefully and retains an aura of timelessness that is utterly mesmerizing.”
Richard Juhlin -“Clos des Goisses is consistently one of the world's foremost wines... This champagne is a real slow starter that should preferably be decanted if it is going to be drunk before its twentieth birthday... I recently held a complete vertical tasting of this personal wine. The champagnes were amongst the most ravishing I have tasted.”
Tom Stevenson -“Clos des Goisses is a very special wine and you have to know why to appreciate it. Not because the knowledge miraculously changes your perception of the wine, but because you will know when to drink it. Most vintages of Clos des Goisses need 10-15 years before they can even start to show their full potential, and true aficionados will seldom drink a vintage less than 20 years old.”
Located on the slopes of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Clos des Goisses is a dramatic, south-facing site with inclines that approach 45 degrees. The soils are rich in chalk, which gives the wine much of its signature energy and tension. According to Charles Philipponnat, ripeness in the Clos easily reaches a good 1.5% more than is common throughout Champagne, as the walls serve to trap the heat; so the combination of southern exposure, chalky soils and warm microclimate yield powerful yet vibrant Champagnes of rare distinction. When Clos des Goisses is young, it is often intensely mineral, but as it ages, the textures become rich, mellow and vinous.
Earlier this week we tasted this latest release and it is everything you would expect, showing great power, purity and complexity but also retaining fantastic finesse and freshness at the same time. Remarkable now but with enough matter to last for decades, it is undoubtedly a must-have. The current ‘voice of Champagne’ Essi Avellan MW awarded it 96 points; and leading Champagne critic Antonio Galloni is also a huge fan, awarding it a great potential 96 points – but take note: he tasted it at a very early stage of its development earlier this year (hence his conservative score) but was still effusive about this new vintage considering it as “Bright, focused and powerful, with terrific freshness for the year”.
With only 1580 cases produced in 2009, Clos des Goisses is a very special, tiny-volume wine from a very special place; we can’t recommend it highly enough! Due to limited quantities the wine may be subject to allocation and priority will be given to customers who bought previous vintages.
Vintage price comparison:
2009– 625£/cs – 96 pts EA
2002 – 1050£/cs – 97 pts EA
1996 – 1650£/cs –97 pts EA
1990 – 2550£/cs –96 pts EA
Offered subject to final confirmation and the usual terms of sale. E&OE September 2018.
- Price: £1,250.00
- Pack Size: 12 x 0.75L
- Status: IB
- Quantity: 3
- ETA: January 2019
Tasting Notes and Scores
Extraordinary power and fruit focus is the overwhelming first impression from this stunning Champagne. Peach, ripe apple, honey and fresh croissants leap from the glass, immediately creating the desire to get some into your mouth. The palate is typically succulent and smooth, with great finesse and texture. The ample weight of intense fruit is balanced by a spicy, almond and olive-skin note and a real sense of freshness and energy. There is so much matter here, it positively clings to the mouth, leaving a lasting mineral character as the fruit eventually fades. This is utterly delicious now but such is the balance that it will live for decades.
This sumptuous Clos des Goisses is so, so fruity. On the nose the overt and exotic appley and peachy fruitiness is complemented by a stylish savoury note with perky spicy nuances and sweet pastry complexity. The palate is caressingly soft with the finest, gentle and perfectly integrated mousse. There is genuine charm here already now but it is built to last, with round, full, fruity power carrying the generous palate.