La Lagune 2003
Tasting Notes and Scores
Thankfully, this wonderful estate, which provided me with many memorable drinking experiences in the 1970s and 1980s, has rebounded from a period of mediocrity. The 2003 and 2004 offerings from La Lagune are the finest back-to-back vintages they have produced in over fifteen years. Kudos to the Frey family, who also purchased the Rhone Valley flagship firm of Paul Jaboulet-Aine in 2005. Their daughter, Caroline Frey, is the oenologist at La Lagune. The sexy, up-front, evolved 2003 La Lagune exhibits a dark ruby/purple hue as well as big nose of cedar, spice box, black cherry jam, licorice, and smoke. Savory, broad, ripe, and low in acidity, it is a total hedonistic and intellectual turn-on. Enjoy it now or cellar it for 15+ years. It is unquestionably the finest La Lagune since 1982.
The 2003 La Lagune was the first vintage whereby Denis Dubourdieu acted as consultant. It has a more fruit forward bouquet compared to the 2002 and it has aged well, offering redcurrant, dried fig and a touch of tinned prune on the nose, yet without the VA or sur-maturité that afflict other 2003s. The palate is medium-bodied with a peppery opening, fine tannin, admirable freshness for this vintage with more tension on the finish than one might expect, plus I appreciate the discrete touch of bay leaf and white pepper on the aftertaste. Tasted at the La Lagune vertical at the château. www.vinous.com