Moreau, Christian - Chablis Les Clos 2010
Tasting Notes and Scores
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 31/08/2012
A gorgeous, spiced bouquet announces the 2010 Chablis Les Clos. I especially like the way the Clos has maintained fabulous freshness and nuance, while capturing the depth of the year. Floral notes add lift and definition to this beautifully articulated, vibrant Clos from Fabien and Guy Moreau. Saline notes give the wine its sense of urgency and focus. The 2010 is at once voluptuous yet weightless, in the way the best wines from Clos often are. This is a great showing. Anticipated maturity: 2012+.
There are a handful of famous producers in Chablis, and a larger number of emerging estates, but the few wineries are as overlooked as Christian Moreau. This is one of the few domaines where I preferred the 2011s to the 2010s. The 2011s have notable freshness and energy, while the 2010s are at times a bit on the heavy side. Perhaps it is a question of harvest dates or the conversion to biodynamic farming that was in its second year in 2011, or a combination of other factors, but it is pretty clear the 2011s have the upper hand when tasted next to the 2010s. The 2011 harvest started on September 2, a good two weeks earlier than 2010. Some of the wines were chaptalized by half a percent. Total acidities were in the 4.5-5% range, which Moreau reports as being similar to 2010. The 2011 Chablis was bottled the first week of June. I tasted the rest of the 2011s from tank or barrel. The 2010s were harvested beginning on September 16th. These are decidedly rich, large-scaled wines endowed with considerable concentration. Yields were down 30-50% because of hail and poor flowering, and that has marked the wines to a significant degree. Overall, I have a slight preference for the 2011s, which are less bombastic than the 2010s.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 31/08/2011
The 2010 Chablis Les Clos is impeccable. Everything comes together beautifully as the wine takes shape in the glass. Well-articulated aromatics lead to an expressive core of chiseled fruit in this wiry Les Clos. Flowers, white peaches, smoke and crushed rocks linger on the long, crystalline finish. This is a very complete wine that is at once linear yet also shows elements of roundness and richness. Moreau’s parcels in Les Clos range from 35 to 55 years of age. This deftly balanced wine was aged 40% in oak. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030.
Fabien Moreau, Christian Moreau’s son, is a sixth-generation winemaker. Despite a rich family lineage, Domaine Christian Moreau is a relatively new estate. The winery was founded in 2002 upon Christian Moreau’s exit from the family’s negociant business following its sale to Boisset. Domaine Christian Moreau farms 12 hectares of vineyards, of which 5.5 are grand cru and 4.5 premier cru. The Domaine lost 30-45% of their crop in 2010 to low yields caused by an irregular flowering that dragged out over three weeks instead of the customary ten days because of unusually cool, damp weather. According to Fabien Moreau the high presence of millerandage (shot berries) and shatter mark the 2010s to a great degree. Vintage 2010 is the first year the Domaine is certified biodynamic. Aside from some hail in early July, which mostly affected Vaillons, the rest of the growing season here proceeded with little in the way of complications until the harvest, which started on September 21st. The wines had high acidity and plenty of malic acid, so the 2010s completed 100% of their malos. I tasted all of the 2009s from bottle and the 2010s in approximate final blends from tank. Moreau ages a portion of their top wines in barrel. In 2009, oak levels were down slightly as Fabien Moreau was concerned that the oak might overpower wines with the naturally lower acidities that are characteristic of that year. (90-93)